The Rhine

Woke to the sun rising over picturesque Cochem - with the Mosel  barge and ferry traffic plying their trade along the river. Sun shining - what a great start to the day. 

Panorama of Cochem with the Cochem Imperial Castle on the right

Starting to be a little pressed for time - needing to be be near the Black Forest by Tuesday. But what a great drive along the Mosel again this morning - past Castle Eltz - and many other castle ruins and vertical vineyards on  the way. 

Deutsche Eck - Koblenz - the confluence of the Mosel and the Rhine

Arrived in Koblenz late morning- parked and took a walking tour of the city guide by our iPhone! We were here 34 years ago - we try not to revisit - but still very enjoyable - wandering though the old town and the. Down to the Deutsches Eck, or “German corner”, the headland is presided over by a giant equestrian statue of Emperor Wilhelm I. Behind it, the Deutschherrenhaus was  once the 13th-century head- quarters of the Teutonic Knights,  

Rhine at the Loreley

We prepared ourselves for a leisurely drive down the left side of the Rhine setting our GPS for Castle Marksburg - setting out we quickly discovered that all roads on both sides of the Rhine we closed to cars  for a cycling festival. These closures extended for 80 km from 10 am to 5 pm!
So at Braubach we pulled over - after a very obliging policeman gave us a map as to where we able to go. - parked up for lunch and a four hour wait until the roads open again! Meet a couple of Brits in the same situation so we had a good afternoon exchanging thoughts and experience.

The Hilton on the Rhine

After 5 pm we headed on the road again  - wandering along the left bank of the Rhine. The Rhine is the Rhine  - not quite the same romance as the Mosel. Still much evidence of the floods that were here a few weeks ago. The sun was out on it was a very pleasant late afternoon with many of the cyclists left over fro the cycle day around the Rhine. Many enjoying the first load of sunshine for many weeks as well as wines  and beers at the many bars set out for this purpose.

We arrive in the pretty village of Eltville for  for our overnight.

Bernkastel - Cochem

Rained heavily all night! The grounds this morning were all water logged. The heavy rain is fairly noisey in the van but still a pleasant sound to hear.

We visited the village of Bernkastel this morning - perhaps the most visited village along the Mosel. A delightful village with all the teapot v for the tourist market. There were many cruise boats in with the town bustling with people.

Beautiful Bernkastel

The treat for the day though was ahead of us with the drive along the Mosel towards Zell, and then to Cochem. This has t be one of the best scenic drives we have seen. At every turn the vistas were stunning and the small villages along the Mosel were welcoming. 

 Castle at Cochem

Spent the later part of the day wandering in Cochem before settling on the river bank in Cochem for our overnight.

It has been said that the Mosel Valley is Motorhome heaven!  I can believe this because the German towns welcome motorhome and provide all the faculties needed - perhaps a lesson for UK towns. I would guess the number of motorhomers we have seen today would count on the thousands. 

Trier

Woke to another over cast sky in Trier. Even the locals are commenting about it all the time.

Trier is considered the oldest city in Germany. The Romans built a major city here 2000 years ago - much of which has survived the centuries all be it with many modifications. 

A visit to this city is very exciting given this longevity and historical importance in the past. 

First things first though - we needed to get a German SIMM card particularly for our data. Language barriers is both a hi defiance and at times a blessing. I wanted a pre-paid plan for a month, I also wanted a 1gb plan - they only came in 500 mb lots. I agreed to this and thought it was gong to cost me €20 but not understanding the hype (advertising) I was charged €5 at the chasier. 

Porta Nigra (the Roman city gateway)

Back to Trier - trekked around the Porta Nigra (the Roman city gateway), the market square and the Dom, the Konstantin Basilika - the reception hall of Emperor Constantine, built around 300 AD, the roman thermal springs and the the 20000 seat amphitheater. What a treasure trove of UNESCO sites - must be the greatest number in any one city!    

20000 seat amphitheater

Caught the bus back to our van before moving on to  Bernkastel along the Mosel for our overnight next to the river. 

Luxembourg

Rained all night in Bastogne! Much cooler  again this morning - heater on for the first in a few weeks. Couldn't imagine the terrible winter of '44/'45 in the midst of the Battle of the Bulge.

Away shortly after breakfast for Luxembourg. A slow entry to the city - another with road works delaying traffic. It seems that infrastructure development is taking place all through Europe - government spending programs - sounds familiar.

Luxembourg

Luxembourg City was for centuries a thorn in Europe’s side. The “Gibraltar of the North” occupies a natural fortress, and the immensely powerful fortifications constructed around it by a parade of rulers made it a tough proposition to assault. These were dismantled in 1867. Today, parks cover ground once occupied by forts, and the city is an attractive mixture of historical interest and contemporary cha rm.

Luxembourg City

Luxembourg, the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg’s capital (pop. 86,000), is a marvelously contrasting mix of the old and the new. The old part of town runs along a deep valley beneath casemates that have lent themselves readily to defense in times of war, while the more modern part of town crowns steep cliffs overlooking the old. The city is the headquarters of the European Court of Justice and of the European Investment Bank, and is one of the three seats of the European Parliament (along with Brussels and Strasbourg). Despite the many banks and the Euro-office towers, Luxembourg City has retained plenty of small-scale, provincial ambience. 

Luxembourg City

A big walking day as we attempted to do the city justice. Many magnificent sites to ponder in a city that is very much contained. The newer areas out from the centre shows just how important this town is to the  European Union. The very distinguished buildings going up could not just be funded by locals - population is about the same as Tasmania. If this was happening at home  then there  would be few complaints - all we need is a big benefactor .  Luxembourg's average income is one of the highest in the world ... and it shows!

Overlooking the valley of Luxembourg

Surprised to see that Trier was only 48 kms away so we decided  to move onto Germany and Trier for the overnight. Now at the start if the German part of the Moselle Valley and the sun is shining.

PS:  A note re diesel prices: It has been said that Luxembourg has the cheapest petrol prices in Europe - this was perhaps verified she. We crossed the border this afternoon from Luxembourg to Germany with perhaps  more than 50 trucks and cars lines up at the petrol  station  before entering Germany. 

Diesel in Australia is about $1.54 per litre, in the UK the cheapest was about $AUD2.15 per litre and in Luxembourg it's was about $AUD1.60 per litre. 

Bastogne

A quiet night at Namur and awoke to the site of the Meuse River and the Citadel on the far bank. Left early for the Citadel for those panoramic views of the town and the surrounds.

The impressive Citadel at Namur

 Another view of the the impressive Citadel at Namur

The Citadel is the legacy of the Dutch who consolidated the site in the 17th century. There has been a presence on this wonderful vantage since pre-historic times and also the Romans saw fit to occupy the area as well. Just stunning views.

The Meuse River from the Citadel at Namur

A little further down the town of Dinant was mentioned as a place to visit - Abbey de Leffe, another hill top citadel, and the Abbey brewery on top of the list. Interesting but not a very polished place - road works on every where, footpaths unpaved, and the citadel  very out of touch with what a good site should be. 

Another fortification at Dinant

Abbey brewery

Moved on and had lunch before arriving in Bastogne for the afternoon and the evening. Bastogne is best thought of as the centre for the fierce battles in December 1944 towards the end of WWII.

Bastogne town centre

Visited the museum for the 101st Airborne Division before taking in the rest of the town. And some unhappy citizens in the centre of the town!

Not all are happy at Bastogne!

Further relaxing before dinner and bed.

Waterloo - Namur

How refreshing - now into the land of 'aires' and 'stellplazes'! A great over night aire with all the services provide from a simple plinth.

A plinth for motorhome services - all over Europe

A late morning again, away by 11.30am. Drove on to Waterloo to ponder  the battle, it's surroundings and the place it holds in European and world history. It was explained that we could do the threesome (trinity!): the battlefield, Wellingtons Museum and Napoleons Museum - all in different locations! For the ' best preserved battle field in Europe' the presentation and story telling was very average. Being the 200th year celebrations next year there was some serious efforts being made to lift the standard a tad.

Painted panorama at Waterloo

Battle of Waterloo

Plan of the battle

 After Waterloo we drove on to Namur. A handsome old riverside town (pop. 108,000) at the confluence of the Meuse and Sambre rivers, the bustling capital of Belgium’s French-speaking Wallonia . The town is dominated by its brooding hilltop Citadelle, evidence of the strategic importance attached to Namur in centuries past. 

Beautiful Namur

The picturesque riverside  esplanade and traditional houses aligning the river creates a special appeal for the many evening walkers. 

It has been interesting to note the difference between this French speaking and hilly area of Belgium and the  dead flat  farmland area of the Dutch speaking north of Belgium. It was also interesting to note that the tourist offices in each of the areas didn't have any information on each others regions!

Our overnight   is  right next to the river looking over to the imposing citadel/fortress on the other side of the river. Temperature pleasant and the rain has gone - for the time being!

Overnight by the Meuse in Namur

Europe Today

An early start to the day! Ferry at 8.00 am but needed this time to have breakfast and get the van ready to move - it all takes time! We needed the time because we were the lucky ones to be ushered into a dark shed on the wharf to be searched by British Customs. With nothing to hide - no guns, knives, nor packages from others etc - we were eventually signalled to join the queue for boarding the ferry - first time in many crossing that we had ever been search.

Car deck on Channel ferry - in the view three motorhomes!

It was a little over 2 hours for the crossing - Dover to Dunkirk - well actually the port is about 11 km from the town! We paid a call to the Auchan Supermarket to stock up with some French produce before driving to the Belgium town of Adinkerke. 

Now, that's a lettuce!

After this we moved on to Roeselare and then onto Harelbeke for our over night.

Sunday Lunch

A little earlier rising this morning - and fortunately because Maddie was on Skype early. Caught up with all the news from Oz.

Needed to get some supplies before going to Norma and Colin's for lunch. What a great afternoon catching up with old friends. 

Norma and Colin - old friends from years gone by.

Caught up with a fox in Norma and Colin's garden!

Got excited when a fox was spotted in the back garden.

Left late in the afternoon for Dover. An easy drive down the motorways reaching Dover for our overnight on the Esplanade. Many other vans here as well waiting for their ferry time. 

At last 20 vans on the esplanade awaiting transit cross the Channel.

An early night tonight ready for the ferry departure tomorrow at 8.00 am.

London

The very late night last night had it's impact on the day! Slept in 'til 10.30! Both with a headache and very little voice - not a product of over imbibing but the noise level the previous night - not use to being 'edgy'! Nevertheless - a good night.

The head of the statue of Marcus Aurelius ug up in London

A slow breakfast before venturing out to the London Museum - a change of focus was what we needed. A superb collection, telling the story of London from prehistoric times to the present day. Spent most of the afternoon there and then caught up with Kelly and Jim for a coffee.

Not ancient Romans - but at an Italian diner.

Later we all caught a tube for Shepherds Bush and the Westfield centre for an evening meal and the movies. Took in the 'Great Gatsby'. Very impressive and visually stunning. Back to Fann St for supper. Another late night - bed by 12.30 am.

London

Friday 21st - Jim's birthday! 

Spent the morning cleaning and even washing the van! All seems to be in excellent going order with batteries working well! 

We left Hertford shortly after midday to make our way to London - with a few planned stops on the way. After all these, we actually arrived in London at 6.30 pm. 

James' birthday bash started at 7 so a quick 'turn around' and we were away to this by 7.00 pm. 

A very entertaining evening - hosted wonderfully by Kelly at the Queen of Hoxton. Met interesting friends of James and renewed old friendships. A great night had by all! And a lovely call from Maddie during the night!

Seemed strange being at a nightclub where the average age would have been low to mid-twenties, lined up to get in, search by the bouncers, thumping music all night and shouting all night to be heard - but it was fun!

Happy birthday Jim!

Hertford

An R n R day today - jobs need to be done. Battery issues solved at Hertford and a washing day too. But right on cue the rain came and things were a little challenging!

Not much else to say.

Waddesdon

An early morning walk by the canal was the starting point of the day. A leisurely breakfast before making our way to Oxford. Traffic madness - spoke to Maddie and a long overdue update of Thomas (GPS), loaded up to date POI. All took time - and Oxford wasn't a great lure so we headed of to Waddesdon  for lunch and the afternoon.

Waddesdon's magnificence! 

After lunch we ventured into the magnificent French Classical design house built by the Rothschild family to house their world renown art collection and to impress his peers. It is simply outstanding - too much for mere mortals to comprehend. I keep telling myself that at the turn of the 20th century only 2 % of the British public had any assets - looking at this it makes you wonder why the revolution didn't take hold here! 

To ensure the assets stayed within the family 16 of 21 marriages were between first cousins!

French classical clock and sculpture

... a sitting room!

... perhaps dining!

... a room!

The 45 rooms on view combine the highest quality French furniture and decorative arts from the 18th century with superb English portraits and Dutch Old Masters.

This took most of the afternoon before edging closer to Hertford for our overnight.

Cotswold Hills

Thought we would be in for more stunning vistas this morning but instead a mist had descended over part of the Cheltenham valley. Very quiet night and equally quite morning - slept late, followed by a slow morning.

A slow trip into the Cotswold took us to charming old villages - some very touristy - the likes of Bourton-on-the-Wold, Stow-on-the-Wold, Moreton-in-Marsh and Donnington. The scenery was outstanding. 

Banbury Cross - "... bells on her toes" and all that!

Stopped for a late lunch at Upton House, visiting this later in the afternoon. The home of the founder if the Shell company.

Upton House

... in the garden.

Later drove to Kirtlngton for our overnight.

Ledbury

What has Thomas (GPS) done to us this afternoon! We have been led a merry dance in arriving at our overnight. But what a stunning finale - a magnificent view overlooking Cheltenham and the Welsh Mountains in the background. The Cleeve Hills and this stunning panorama was what we have to put up with.

Over looking Cheltenham

The day started with a very overcast sky and light rain. After breakfast we headed for Ledbury, the market town nestled in the slopes of the Malvern Hills. The weekly cattle markets have just ended after 900 years, with general markets held twice a week. Famous for its 'black and white' buildings with the Market House and the cobbled lane leading to St Michael's Church being unchanged since Tudor times. We took a tour of a number if old buildings with the explanation of  the discovery of the Tudor wall paintings in the Butchers House being a highlight.

Ledbury

Market House Ledbury

After a few more shops and a little more wandering it was getting past lunch time. Decision made to mosey on down to Ross-on-Wye for lunch. Found a loveley parking place by the river, had lunch, relax for an hour or so and then explored this old market town as well. Timber frame house were loosing some of their appeal at this stage - but still very quaint.

Ross-on-Wye (not my picture!)

This brought us to not-such-a-highlight by Thomas- but it all ended well. A lovely feed of salmon, a couple of vinos and a vista to die for - life is good!

Ludlow

Another early walk this morning - in the hills of Long Mynd near Church Stretton. The landscape has changed since traveling close to the Welsh border. The hills and valleys offer opportunity for the hardy outdoor Brits to take in the country side. It would be a little bleak in winter - a little bleak on a rainy overcast summers morning. But anywhere looks good with green fields and hills! Perhaps the rain in Tassie lately may bring back the greenness.

Had breakfast and then set out for Ludlow. Jumper on, jumper off weather. Ludlow is another medieval market town made rich by manufacturing and trading wool and cloth, and by the 16th century it had become the major administrative centre, governing the wild Welsh and the border counties. The castle dates back to the 11th century to repel the Welsh invaders.  Henry VIII's first wife lived here for a time.

Ludlow Town centre

The town has a market each day of the week- with the food and antique market today. Bought some beautiful French wine which I'm about to open!  The town has any number of timber framed house to add to its quaintness.

Market Square Ludlow

.... another Tudor timber framed house!

A few miles south we called in on Croft Castle on our way to Leominster. Another fascinating historical feast - the story of Princess Charlotte, who died young in childbirth, was the heir to the throne and this made way for Victoria to assumes the throne at a later stage. Could have changed history eg the Kaiser.

Croft Castle door way.

Made our way to Leominster for a look around and our overnight.